The Historic Waikiki Trail

Waikiki Trail – March 23, 2013
 
This was all meant to be a humorous act. I joked to my hiking friends that I would hike the Waikiki trail. I told them, I would prepare for it like any other hike. I got some chuckles. As I planned my route, I was surprised to see that there was in fact an actual trail. The route is labeled by 21 markers (23 I would come to find out). This gave me a sense of purpose for hiking it. In addition, I love to play tourist in my hometown. I believe that not only does it create a fun escape for oneself, but provides a deeper understanding of what visiting this island is all about, which in turn creates more of an internal appreciation for what we have here on Oahu. I did a three day adventure in Waikiki. Joining me on the first day was my wife (more of a lunch date), day two was the family (the bulk of the makers), day three was hiking partner Marvin (just to finish up the trail).
 
I digress, The Historic Waikiki Trail as it’s called was created by Hawaiian Activist George S. Kanahele. He was a controversial figure mainly for his idea of “Hawaiianness” a term which is defined as, [Hawaiians are natural hosts who must embrace the reality of tourism and take an active role in shaping it to the advantage of their community] (Honolulu Advertiser, July 2, 2006). If you lived here your whole life, Kanahele’s idea is not the norm especially among Hawaiian Activist. Kanahele goes on and does a write up on the 21 marker trail. In his write up, he explains why the markers are placed in specific locations and provides a short historical description of each marker.

As I read the entire write up, I categorized it into three different areas of interest just so it would make sense to me. Part of the write up talks about how Waikiki was once a big time working ahupua’a (division of land), where schools of fish were caught, taro plants harvested, and visitors entertained, etc. Another part of the write up describes important Hawaiian people such as past (royalty) kings, queens, and entertainers. The third part is military influence and present day Waikiki.

It is of important note that most of the markers on the trail are surfboards with descriptions. The rest of the markers are statues and items of historical significance. One caveat, some markers in the Kanahele description do not match the marker title on the actual trail, making it confusing. I was able to figure this problem out by matching paragraphs of words in the Kanahele description to the description on the actual marker.

*The WAIKIKI STRIP is also known as Kalakaua Avenue (from the Kalakaua Statue to the Kapi’olani Park Sign [this of course is my definition])

Here we go: The Markers

Marker 1 (Beaches)

Appropriately labeled beaches. Right! What do tourist think of when they go to Waikiki? However, additional information about the Natatorium and Kapi’olani Park are also provided in marker 1. The Natatorium is a man-made salt water pool dedicated to the island men who lost their lives during World War I. Kapi’olani Park was a gift that King David Kalakaua gave to Queen Kapi’olani. There is a statue of Queen Kapi'olani located on the sidewalk along the long stretch of metered parking.

Natatorium
[Marker Location - on the sidewalk, beach side, sort of adjacent to the Kapi’olani Park sign, (other clue: after the Natatorium)]

Marker 2 (Waikiki)

On the trail, the surfboard marker titled Waikiki gets into the history of Waikiki. Mainly talks about surfing. It also talks about the first of the three Waikiki streams that use to flow in the area. The first stream was called Kuekaunahi. The Kanahele write up also talks about the Kapahulu Groin – a long walkway in back of the Waikiki Aquarium.

Kapahulu Groin

[Marker Location – on the sidewalk, beach side, a little past the first marker]

Marker 3 (Lili’uokalani)

This marker is out of the way. It is located near the Ala Wai terminus, near the Zoo. The marker talks about the Queen’s Retreat which was the principal home in Waikiki in the latter 1800s. This part on the Ala Wai is where Queen Lili’uokalani made her home.

[Marker Location – Near the end of the Ala Wai (zoo/Diamond Head side]

Marker 3

Marker 4 (Prince Kuhio)

Back on the Waikiki strip. This marker is dedicated to Prince Jonah Kuhio Kalaniane’ole. It’s ironic, but Kuhio Day will be celebrated a few days from now. Prince Kuhio is an important person in Hawaiian history, he is best known for the Homes Commission Act which provided land for Native Hawaiians.

[Marker Located – at the start of Kuhio Beach Park on the sidewalk, beach side]


Marker 5 (Duke Statue)

The Duke statue is the marker. Duke Kahanamoku should be unanimously viewed as someone who helped bring exposure to Oahu. He is known as the, “Father of International Surfing”. As you walk on the Waikiki strip, it is apparent that Duke owns Waikiki.

Duke Statue

[Marker Location – a little pass the Prince Kuhio marker, you can’t miss it]

Marker 6 (Healing Stones)

Healing Stones of Kapaemahu, legend says that 4 wizards came from Tahiti. These wizards had amazing power to heal the inhabitants of the island. With their days drawing to a close, they wanted to create some tangible form of themselves, hence the healing stones.

(Marker 6) Healing Stones of Kapaemahu, legend says that 4 wizards came from Tahiti. These wizards had amazing power to heal the inhabitants of the island. With their days drawing to a close, they wanted to create some tangible form of themselves, hence the healing stones.

[Marker Location – right after the Duke Statue]

Marker 7 (Uluniu)

This marker is dedicated to King David Kalakaua. He had a residence here in the 1800s called Uluniu. King Kalakaua was the life of the party. His lavish lifestyle dubbed him the nickname, “Merry Monarch”.

King's Village Waikiki

[Marker Located - OFF the strip at the entry of King’s Village on Ka'iulani Ave]

Marker 8 (Ka’iulani)

This marker was the most confusing to find. Best directions I can give you, it’s on the corner of Kanekapolei-Kuhio Ave. This area is dedicated to Princess Ka’iulani. She was strikingly beautiful, talented, well educated, and groomed to serve in office to advocate for her people. She unfortunately died at the age of 23 in 1899.

[Marker Located – corner of Kanekapolei-Kuhio Ave]

Marker 9 (King Lunalilo)

Lunalilo was the first elected king of Hawaii. He was known as the kind chief. He had a residence here, what is now known as the International Market Place.


[Marker Located – International Market Place under Banyan Tree]

Marker 10 (Moana Hotel)

The hotel is the marker although the Kanahele write up says at the courtyard near the Banyan tree. Believe me, if you looking for a surfboard in this area, it’s not there. Trust me, I did. Simple story of the Moana is that it opened in 1901 and established Waikiki as a resort destination. The hotel itself stands out on the strip, for years when driving on Kalakaua Ave. I thought to myself, “I want to go inside”, which we did on this day.

Moana Hotel Waikiki

[Marker Located - on the strip, sidewalk beach side, and look for a hotel that stands out amongst the others]

Marker 11 (‘Apuakehau)

This marker talks about Waikiki second stream – ‘Apuakehau. It emptied right where the Duke’s restaurant lanai is. This area is also known for the Waikiki Beach Boys. They were a group of guys that entertained the tourist starting in the 1930s and given the title, “Ambassadors of Waikiki”.

Duke's Restaurant

[Marker Located at Duke’s Restaurant at Outrigger Waikiki (not Reef on the Beach)]

Marker 12 (Helumoa Grove)

This marker is a little out of the way, it is located in the middle of the triangle I call Hard Rock Café/Oakley/Bank of Hawaii. Helumoa was once a royal coconut grove home to 10,000 coconut trees. The significance of the grove was that Chief Kakuhihewa planted the first tree in the 16th century, but I don't think its there anymore.

Hard Rock Cafe Waikiki

[Marker Located – in the middle of the triangle known as Hard Rock Café/Oakley/Bank of Hawaii – on the strip]

Marker 13 (Kawehewehe)

This area of the beach called Kawehewehe was known for healing, where the sick and ill would come to get better.

Outrigger Reef Hotel

[Marker Located – on the beach next to the Outrigger Reef Hotel]


Marker 14 (Ah Fong Villa)

At one time in the mid-1800s, this place was home to Hawaii’s first Chinese Millionaire Chung Ah Fong. He started out as a plantation worker and eventually owned stores before going into real estate. The U.S. Army Museum now occupies his place.

U.S. Army Museum Waikiki

[Marker Located – in back of the U.S. Army Museum]

Marker 15 (Kalia Road)

This was once the area of Oahu’s largest fishpond called Ka’ihikapu. Today, Fort DeRussy Park occupies this area.

[Marker Located on Kalia Road in between the U.S. Army Museum and Hale Koa Hotel]

Marker 16 (Paoa Estate)

Home to Duke Kahanamoku who spent many years here as a youth. Kahanamoku learned to swim and fish here.

(Marker 16) Paoa, home to Duke Kahanamoku's when he was a child. Kahanamoku learned to swim, farm, fish here.

[Marker Located on the beach, at the end of Paoa Place, almost on the beach]

Marker 17 (Kalia Bay)

The Pi’inaiao is Waikiki’s third stream and emptied where the Ilikai stands today. Kalia Bay was once described as the most productive seafood producing bays ever known. Today, Waikiki is almost fished out.

Ilikai

[Marker Located – patio of the Ilikai, near the Shore Bird of Waikiki Restaurant, walk up the ramp]

Marker 18 (Ala Moana Park)

I couldn’t find this marker, maybe it was destroyed. Directions say the location is at the Diamond Head Corner of the entrance to Ala Moana Beach Park, but when we went there, it is not there anymore. Ala Moana was once a swampland and dumping ground for waste.

[Marker Located – According to Kathie Fry’s website Hawaii for Visitors, literally stand near the Diamond Head entrance of Ala Moana Beach Park near a long black pipe that was where the marker was located at one time]

Marker 19 (Ala Wai Canal)

Depending on how you interpret things, the Ala Wai Canal was created to prevent mosquito outbreak  to save lives or divert the three Waikiki streams to make room for hotels? Your choice on why they created the Ala Wai Canal. I know mine.

Ala Wai Canal

[Marker Located – the walkway in between the Ala Wai Canal and Hawaii Convention Center]

Marker 20 (Fort DeRussy)

Going back to Kalakaua Ave., is where the Fort DeRussy marker is. It is located near the Fort DeRussy sign. This sign is dedicated to Brigadier General Rene E. DeRussy who served in the War of 1812.

Fort DeRussy

[Marker Located – DeRussy sign where Ala Moana Blvd and Kalakaua Ave. meet]

Marker 21 (King Kalakaua Statue)

The original trail ended at the Kalakaua Statue, right where the strip begins. Really if you think about it, if what is said is true about Kalakaua, Waikiki personifies King David.

King Kalakaua Statue
Marker 22 (Story of Kalia)

This marker is new. It is not in the original write up. When hiking the trail, this marker confused the hell out of me. Why was it there? But one clue is the map at the bottom of the surfboard marker, only the two new markers have maps on the surfboard. This marker is similar to marker 17 (Ilikai). It talks about how Kalia was the place to be, there was an abundance of everything here.

Hilton Hawaiian Village

Hilton Hawaiian Village

[Marker Located – Hilton Hawaiian Village at the waterfall/hula statues]

Marker 23 (Rainbow Tower & Hilton Lagoons)

Not sure why this marker was put up. I’m assuming that the Hilton owners had a say in this. This marker tells of Hilton’s role in Waikiki. I honestly didn’t read this marker.

Hilton Lagoon

[Marker Located – before Hilton Lagoon on the beach walk]

There you have it! All 23 markers of the Waikiki Trail. Honestly, if you are into scavenger hunts and can walk for a long period of time, Do it! It provides a completely new perspective of Waikiki. I know there are a lot of places to eat in Waikiki, but be prepared for a long day. Wear shoes, put on sunscreen and bring water just like a normal hike.

If you want to do this trail, I really suggest you start at Kapiolani  Park (Diamond Head side) and walk towards the Ala Wai so you can get marker 3 (Queen Liliuokalani) done first, this marker in my opinion is off the trail. After that, walk on the Ala Wai and hang a left on Kanekapolei until you intersect Kuhio. Take care of marker 7 & 8. Then walk down the street towards the beach until you are back onto the strip, you’ll have to back track (left, then cross the street) to the Kapiolani Park Sign (near Starbucks) to start on markers 1 on. It may feel like a waste a time, but believe me it isn’t because the excitement will begin. The hard part in general will be walking the strip, going onto the beach for some markers, and walking across the street for other markers. But it will go by quick because of the close proximity of the markers in this area.  Once you hit the majority of the makers, the tiring part will be near the end (the Fort DeRussy area) because the markers are spaced apart pretty well. Read the descriptions in the location sections on this write up, I’ve tried to give clear clues on where the markers are. If you go into Ala Moana Beach Park or Ala Moana Shopping Center, you’ve gone too far. Hit Atkinson Drive to get to the Convention Center, then hang a right to get back onto the strip. Last thing, do marker 12 last, it is on the strip a few blocks after the Kalakaua statue.

You may feel some guilt after reading and comprehending all the markers, but don’t, just like the author of this trail – George S. Kanahele – we must embrace tourism, after all – it is present day Oahu. Unfortunately, the past is the past and you can’t change the past. The streams are gone, the fish are gone, the Hawaiian Kingdom is gone – and really the ahupua’a of Waikiki is gone. I understand the Hawaiian Activist point of view on this issue. I do get it. All I can say is that present day Waikiki is a resort destination where people save up money to come here and enjoy what this island has to offer. Granted, some tourist come here and disrespect the island by littering and have a lack of appreciation for the culture. But really, it is our responsibility to show them how to act on this island. Most tourist will comply with rules and expectations. Just like how I go to places like Texas, California, Washington D.C. and Florida, I play tourist and try as much as possible to abide by rules as long as I know what the expectation is. If tourists know they will comply.

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