A Dangerous Hikes for the Ages
Pali Puka to Lanihuli – August 25, 2013
I thought I’d never again do a hike this dangerous. Today, I did. This hike is seriously very high on the danger level. I do not condone anyone to do a hike like this. The crossover has obstacles and the ridge is razor thin.
Jay invited a group of great hikers via facebook. Joining the group today was Jay, Agnes, Dave F., Pip, Sara “The SharkCaller”, & OAG members – Erik, Darren & myself.
The plan today was to start at the Pali Lookout, go left up the ridge towards the Puka, climb up towards the crest, tackle major obstacles on a thin ridge, continue towards Lanihuli, and come down the Alewa trail.
Some of us met at Na Pueo at 6:15am. Jay arrived with Nate. Nate would do the Alewa trail to Lanihuli to take pictures of some lobelia while waiting for us. We staged cars at the park, and drove to the Pali Lookout. We met Dave, Agnes, and Pip there.
After some discussion and a brief look at the weather, the hike was a go. The winds were howling on this day, so we all knew the danger level would magnify on the thin ridge.
The hike to the Puka was quick, from there we quickly made it up the mountain towards the crest of the ridge. On the way up the steep incline, rocks were falling everywhere. Not just small rocks, good size rocks were coming down the mountain, someone was in a frenzy (inside joke).
When we got to the crest, it was bring your "A" game and concentration to the party. The ridge was thin, very thin. The first climb was hair raising, but I came focused and ready to go. Some ups and downs and we hit our first obstacle. Initially, some of us thought it was “The W”, but it wasn’t. This section required an up and down climb over a crumbly ridge before hitting a very thin section. There was this big rock in the way, which Jay apparently climbed over. It appeared very dangerous because of the minimal holds, but it was probably the safer way to go. Most of us contoured windward (insane). Bouldering that section was freakin’ ridiculous. The ledge was like 6 inches, with a nasty vertical drop beneath. Because we had to wait at safe spots before contouring, I only saw Dave, Erik, Pip, and Darren tackle the obstacle. I saw Dave and Erik with total concentration on their faces as they made their way. Pip and Darren tackled the bouldering section next. Then it was my turn. The first 5 feet wasn’t too bad, but then it gets hairy. The next step looked damn near stupid, but Darren told me to start climbing and follow his route up towards the safe spot. With his verbal guidance, I was able to pull myself up. A fall on this section, and survival will be minimal. Agnes, who was sweeping, went over the anvil rock like it was practice.
A series of steep climbs over no more than a foot wide of crumbly ridge ensued. There were a few sections where crawling or straddling was the only way to progress. The drops were just deadly. A fall on the windward side is automatic. A fall on the leeward side, and there maybe a chance of survival, but not much.
My mind was right. I was in extreme hiking mode, a mode I haven’t been in a while, since Ahiki Backside, and before that Pohakea Pass. Dark clouds started to move in as we approached “The W” section. I was like damn!, not good. But the wind just blew the clouds over. The exposure on “The W” section is the real deal. We contoured the first part of “The W” via a leeward bypass. The leeward contour was no joke. The drop was vertical and the angle precarious. After the contour, I climbed a little to reach the middle of “The W”. As I stood near Dave F., I remember him telling me, "were so stupid", I agreed wholeheartedly. The climb up the front of “The W” needed careful attention. To clearly explain it, imagine a floor tile 12 by 12 inches. You could probably fit only 3 tiles at the top of "The W", and there are 1000+ foot drops to both sides. In addition, it is crumbly, I mean that thing is going to disintegrate one day. The backside of “The W” is retarded. I went on my stomach, wiggled towards the first foot hold while grabbing the rope, and slowly went down. Dave F. guided me down without incident, the last step being the hardest to feel out. Dave yelled out "6 more inches", and I swear I was reaching for one minute for that 6 inches. Agnes who was sweeping still yet, went down front first on her ass, it was crazy. Who would do that?
We continued progress until we hit the final difficult obstacle which I call “The Leeward Contour #2” and "anvil rock". This section was just awkward. The drop, like the first leeward contour was hundreds of feet of vertical wall. I watched Erik guide Dave down the vertical wall. Then it was my turn. Dave F. helped coach me down. Then it was this weird bouldering section on a loose soiled dirt patch with a 200 foot vertical drop below. We were aided by a rope. I remember Erik telling me, “You have to get to this spot and somehow jump to this spot really quickly”. He said that mainly because the spot looked like it was going to give way any minute. I followed directions to a tee, but went astray and landed on some thimble berry bush. “Ow fuck” I said, that was sore. It didn’t matter as I was already shredded from thimble berry thorns throughout. If you do this hike, and I don’t condone anyone to do this hike, make sure you have long pants and sleeves. The ridge is littered with thimble berry and cat’s claw thorns.
After the last major obstacle, it was home free. Jay and Sara led a strong pace towards Lanihuli. I had problems tackling the steep rolling ridges as my arms couldn't lift my body up on the steep inclines anymore. I remember taking long rest to let my body recover. From a distance Agnes saw a guy in a red shirt coming up the Kalihi Saddle towards Lanihuli. I laughed saying that no one would be doing that.
About one hour after our last obstacle, we all made it to Lanihuli. Nate was further on the Ko’olau Ridge taking pictures of Lobelia. Daps for everyone! Then I snapped a bunch of pictures. All of a sudden, super hiker Ahnate came through the bushes. We were like where did you come from? He said he just finished the Lanihuli portion of the Kalihi Saddle, making our accomplishment look second class. But both Ahnate and Jay tried to make us feel better saying that the Kalihi Saddle isn’t as dangerous as what we just did. After they said that, I took a look at the Kalihi Saddle from the Lanihuli summit and didn’t believe them. The Kalihi Saddle is just scary.
We met with Nate to take some nice pictures of Lobelia, but it wasn’t in bloom yet. Still a very pretty plant. We went back to the Lanihuli summit and had a discussion on our bailout. Though we staged cars at Alewa, the consensus was to bail down Mo’ole. At the bottom, Agnes would call her friend Lisa to pick us up. We went down the Alewa trail for about a mile, then went left at the junction towards Mo’ole Valley. It would be my first time doing Mo’ole, how exciting! I planned Mo’ole 3 years ago and didn’t get around to doing it. I call Mo’ole the Dave F. trail as he was the one who pioneered it. We hit a series of trickling waterfalls, all beautiful in my opinion. I tried to take pictures, but it didn’t come out. We spent a lot of time at the waterfalls, it was well worth it.
After completing about 8-10 waterfalls, we finally hit the first waterfall. Erik left and I was talking with Jay and Nate at falls #1. I remember talking to him about photography. I left Jay to find Erik. I passed a tunnel and followed a trail downstream. After about 15 minutes, the trail didn’t look right. I did my basic trail check. There was a trail, but it didn’t look distinct. I checked for footprints, only pig tracks. I checked for ribbons, none in sight. Unfortunately, I’ve been in this situation many times before and knew I had to backtrack. All the while, Erik and Darren were trying to call me, but my phone was on silent. I went back to the tunnel. I called for Jay, but figured he left already. Near the tunnel was another trail, so I took that. About 10 minutes later, I heard Dave’s voice calling my name, I also checked my phone. I saw that Darren and Erik called me leaving voicemails and Darren texted me to take the tunnel. I yelled to Dave that I’m on top of the hill, he came up and I apologized to him that I should have waited, but we both joked around that it’s in our nature to just, go. For me, hiking alone always gave me a sense of awareness. It’s the awareness you don’t get while hiking in a group. I’m talking about the thought process. It’s a different way of thinking when you hike alone. There is a checklist that goes through your head, there’s also a planning procedure that takes place. You notice tiny clues and nuances of the trail that many people don’t notice.
I walked with Dave back to the group. Everyone gave Dave F. a round of applause for finding me. In the past, I would be ashamed and be offended at everyone's wise cracks for me “getting lost”. But honestly, I’ve been hiking too long and experienced too much to take offense. Sure, everyone had to wait for me, but that adds to the moments of great hiking. And that is what great hiking is all about, “THE MOMENTS”! We accomplished a lot today as a group, but the thing that we will treasure the most years from now are the moments we experienced together. I know I say that on every hike, but really what else can I say.
As we got to the Pali Hwy, we patiently waited for the cars to pass and an opportunity for us to cross. We crossed Pali Hwy all the while laughing like hyenas. Lisa was waiting with boyfriend Bill and they brought out the money drink – 7-11 Slurpee’s. OMG! We were so thankful! I drank that thing like no tomorrow, with a brainfeeze every 5 minutes, I didn't care. They also brought watermelon and pineapple. We were so grateful. Lisa dropped all of us off at the Pali Lookout. The post meal hike was at Bangkok Chef, a healthy, yet tasteful meal.
This ridge was the most narrowest I’ve ever been on. “The W” and “Windward Contour" sections are some of the hardest obstacles I’ve accomplish to date. Finishing the hike down Mo’ole was icing on the cake. Hiking on Oahu is just...
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